In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. What you want is the Mammut Crag Smart HMS. Le Smart Alpine de Mammut est la version alpine de l'assureur Smart récompensé, compatible avec des cordes à double, jumelées, mais aussi à simple. I'm pretty sure this was made specifically to work with the Alpine Smart … The Mammut Alpine Smart has been often criticized for its bulky design, but it comes with great features as well, such as; auto locking mechanism, turns into guide mode for top belay with the smoothest rope feeding yet to be seen, double loops for rappelling and making this device the perfect companion for left handed individuals. In field tests, it didn’t lock up quite as automatically as the Grigri 2 or similar devices, but this is a plus for trad and ice, where it’s important to give softer catches. La Smart Alpine est compatible avec des cordes à simple, mais aussi avec des cordes à double et des demi-cordes, ce qui en fait le compagnon idéal pour toutes les sorties d’alpinisme sur roche et sur glace. Points: 86 I've used the Smart Alpine and I've used the Smart 2.0. $45 4.4 or 4.8 oz. How can we improve GearLab? The Mammut Smart Alpine is most easily described as a modified tube-style device. The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device.". The Smart Alpine (double-strand auto-locking device) has yet to be updated, so we'll have to wait and see if the improved changes on the 2.0 make it to the Alpine. This Smart Alpine version is created for use with rope diamteters from 7.5 mm to 9.5 mm and is distinctly colored Silver and Red. This device is half the price of most assisted brakers, and it weighs less than 5 oz. range. Speculation: At the absolute earliest, we’d see a prototype at the Outdoor show in Germany in June 2017, and then a fully featured version could come out in 2019. Two slots allow you to belay with double or twin ropes, and to accommodate such skinny ropes, the new Alpine version comes in two sizes. Rédiger un test. Avis sélectionné . Avec son poids plume de 80 g, le Smart 2.0 est facile à utiliser, ne possède pas de pièce ou de levier à manipuler et offre un effet de freinage nettement plus efficace. For a start, the Smart Alpine can handle double-rope rappels and auto-block mode to belay one or two seconds; it’s equally at home on single-pitch and multi-pitch routes, unlike most assistedbraking devices. It doesn't have to because its intuitive design speaks for itself and offers great utility on belay or rappel. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. This device is great for single-pitch climbing uses. Smart alpine 7,5-9,5 est la version alpine du système Smart de Mammut.. Smart alpine 7,5-9,5 est compatible avec des cordes à simple ou double ce qui permet d'avoir de la polyvalence dans son utilisation. GearLab is reader-supported. For this reason, we preferred the sharper lock found on other passive assist devices. When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. The potential performance benefits of passive assisted braking devices like the Smart Alpine excited our testers and buoyed the possibility of a revolution in belay devices. Teeth do wear out. Magasinez tous nos produits de la marque Mammut vêtements et équipement d'escalade. Mammut's Fritz Schäfer, Climbing Equipment Product Manager, explains how the award-winning Smart and Smart Alpine belay devices were developed and how… While this recommendation works well for the Smart (non-alpine variant), I think there may be better solutions than the CRAG HMS for the Alpine variant. For top ropes it works great, just as well as a GRIGRI. For all that this belay device does, Mammut should charge twice as much. ; 7.5–9.5 mm or 8.9–10.5 mm mammut… Enter the Mammut Smart Alpine, which brings unprecedented versatility to an assisted-braking device. You can limit wear by rappelling on the side without teeth (if you don’t need the extra friction). We tested the version that takes 8.9mm to 10.5mm ropes (half and single), but Mammut also makes a slightly lighter (4.4 oz.) Points: 105 Anyone use this in guide mode and for rapping. You can still check out all the specs and claim your ownership. Smart Alpine 8.7 – 10.5 Mammut : Assureur d'escalade La version alpine du fameux dispositif Smart est compatible avec des cordes à simple, mais aussi avec des cordes à double et des demi-cordes, ce qui en fait le compagnon idéal lors de toutes les sorties d’alpinisme sur roche et sur glace. Silver-red version for use with rope diameters of 7.5 - 9.5 mm. Mammut Smart Alpine on backcountry.com Petzl GRI GRI + Retail: $149.95. It differs from the Mammut Smart Alpine 7.5-9.5 by having a slightly larger separation between the plates. This belay device, when in its optimal configuration, works well; but there are some issues I have with the device, and I explain them in this video.Having a double slotted, auto-assisted locking belay a..... Download Video Download Audio mp4 avi flv m2t mpeg mkv mov wmv. Mammut Smart Alpine. Was für einige gegen dieses Gerät sprechen könnte, ist das Gewicht, aber ich hatte bisher keinerlei Probleme in Kombination mit weiterem Klettermaterial. No ratings yet. Le caratteristiche sono le stesso dello Smart. In fact, you can load the device for three different modes of braking: the braking-force support mode for belaying and rappelling, a self-locking mode for belaying seconds from above, and a mode with less braking action for times when you need less friction. After climbing to a mid-route anchor we rappelled a little over 200 ft. to the bottom of the route. Was für einige gegen dieses Gerät sprechen könnte, ist das Gewicht, aber ich hatte bisher keinerlei Probleme in Kombination mit weiterem Klettermaterial. We tested this device on a night ice climbing outing. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Good value, durable, low auto-block resistance, Bulky, jerky when rappelling/lowering, lots of friction in auto-block mode. If it’s not working out, you can return it (consumables, undergarments and swimwear excluded). For rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping. Built on the experience the new Smart 2.0 offers significantly improved braking effectiveness as well as optimized geometry and intuitive handling. When it comes to belaying, the Smart Alpine offers the same excellent qualities as the Smart: dynamic braking of the climber in an accidental fall, and locks even at low levels of force exerted by the user. We testing the auto locking feature and found it to engage well on our thin 7.8mm half-ropes. Braking-force support is another way of saying: not quite self-locking, but almost. http://www.climbing.com/skill/essential-skills-auto-blocking-belay-devices/. Confusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. This keeps the auto-lock from engaging. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. Il existe en deux versions, pour cordes à simple et cordes à double. Unfortunately these benefits are achieved with substantial compromises in the Smart Alpine. If you know where to find this online in the US, let us know, and we’ll add the link. Proper use can be confusing, and it is important to be extra careful with the Mammut Smart Alpine when belaying off an anchor. Compagnon indispensable pour les courses en rocher et en glace. Rappelling is the same as giving slack. The Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device doesn't boast unnecessarily about its own intelligence. 293), “at a modest price, and with all its benefits, this is an amazing tool.”. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope. Be sure to carefully read the manual. Achat Mammut Smart Alpine 8.9 - 10.5 black/red one size à prix discount. When it comes to belaying, the Smart Alpine offers the same excellent qualities as the Smart: dynamic braking of the climber in an accidental fall, and locks even at low levels of force exerted by the user. Compared to some of the other passive devices we compared it against, the Smart Alpine is a little more jerky. s'abonner. That being said, it's very prone to block when giving slack and the taking it is not as smooth as with a ATC/Grigri so it does require a lot of feeling to operate. This engages your shoulder and can be tiring during long descents. While belaying leaders and seconds, we found the Smart feeds and takes in slack smoothly; it was slightly less smooth than other devices for rappels or lowering. Rocksolid Guarantee Shop with confidence. Avis Mammut Smart 2017. SMART ALPINE Mammut est la version alpine du fameux dispositif Smart. In addition, it's bulky and creates some jerkiness when feeding slack. Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel). Make sure that you carefully read and follow the Mammut Smart Alpine manual. The CRAG Smart HMS by Mammut is the actual recommendation by Mammut, or any other (EU-)PSA symmetric HMS according to the manual. Note the Mammut smart (excluding alpine) is of thicker diameter 8-10.5mm and not ideal for Trad. The Smart Alpine (double-strand auto-locking device) has yet to be updated, so we'll have to wait and see if the improved changes on the 2.0 make it to the Alpine. La plus belle Boutique de Sport du Web vous guide vers une large sélection d'articles de Sport et Sportswear des plus grandes marques, le tout à prix smashé ! These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope. The Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device. The Mammut Smart Alpine is a passive assisted braking belay device that also works in auto-block mode for belaying a second directly from an anchor. En conclusion, le Mammut Smart nous a totalement convaincu sur le court test que nous avons fait subir. No voice explanation but the video show how to use Smart Alpine. The main climbing gear certifications are CE and UIAA--and normally the UIAA creates the rules that the CE body also supports. Press to open modal with high resolution version of current image. This is the best case scenario and does not necessarily take into consideration that certified ropes have a tolerance of +/- .3 mm. The Mammut Smart 2.0 is a solid little piece of kit - It's relatively light (not the lightest, but whatever), it feeds really well when lead belaying, it has good holding power for falls and takes, and it's blindingly simple. Note the Mammut smart (excluding alpine) is of thicker diameter 8-10.5mm and not ideal for Trad. The range of rope diameters, in millimeters, that the manufacturer/brand specifies can safely be used. Lano se snadno podává. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. For Mammut’s sake, it’s worth noting that the original Smart came out in 2009 and the Smart Alpine arrived in 2011. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. A common guide mode setup shown below. Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. Check out Clothing, Shoes, Technical Hardware & Avalanche Safety Equipment. Léger, pratique, efficace, facile d’apprentissage et vendu à un prix concurrentiel, il a de sérieux arguments pour aller grignoter des parts de marché aux cadors de la catégorie des appareils auto-freinants. Sujet: MAMMUT Smart Alpine Mar 30 Avr - 3:56: Le Smart Alpine est dérivé du Smart et permet l'emploi de deux brins de corde. This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight; this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices. The Smart Alpine can also be used to independently belay one or two second climbers in an autolocking mode from the fixed point. Another version known simply as the Smart 2.0 has only one friction channel for exclusive use with single ropes. We’ll continue to check all the major retailers and will update this page as soon as we find one. Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time). To feed slack to a leader with the Smart Alpine you have to pull up on the handle to keep it from locking while rope passes through. Although it's our favorite passive device in auto-block mode, we found the long handle can get pressed against features and disable its locking function. Great conditions to test the limits of a belay device. Braking-force support is another way of saying: not quite self-locking, but almost. Not a problem in the larger size in conjunction with a single rope, mind. So naturally, I wanted to check out the “new” GRIGRI+. This version of the Smart Alpine is officially retired.You've found a page of history! La révolution de l'assurage ! It accomplishes this via a clever angled slot in the side of the modified tube that uses the pull of a fall to direct the belay biner towards the brake strand, pinching the rope. New for 2011, the Smart Alpine is a two-slot version of Mammut’s Smart device ($29.95). Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. Postez un avis de qualité et augmentez vos chances de recevoir gratuitement du matériel dans le cadre de notre programme de Tests privés. The Smart 2.0 has improved locking power compared to this device, and we didn't notice the same creep with it as we did with the Alpine. At the top of the route I found the Smart Alpine provided a smooth confident descent. We think it's worth the wait. The UIAA certification is a voluntary process. Rappelling with the Mammut Smart Alpine requires a bit of upward pressure on the release handle. This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. The alpine version of the award-winning Smart.This Smart Alpine version is created for use with rope diameters from 8.7 mm to 10.5 mm and is distinctly colored Silver and Red. The potential performance benefits of passive assisted braking devices like the Smart Alpine excited our testers and buoyed the possibility of a revolution in belay devices. Součástí jistítka … Jistítko lze použít i pro dobírání spolulezce do štandu. If so, does it beat out atc guide? Mammut Smart Alpine - jistící brzda pro horolezectví určená i pro lezení vícedélek. Some users have noted that this design keeps the carabiner in a fixed position and can cause the rope to rub along only one section, shortening the lifespan of that carabiner. The unique design of the Mammut Smart Alpine makes it prone to unique problems. BUY Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device. So naturally, I wanted to check out the “new” GRIGRI+. I'm a fan of that small extra help in the 2.0 just in case, as well as the two slots and the guide mode of the alpine. Mammut Smart Alpine 7.5 - 9.5 silver/red one size - La version alpine du fameux dispositif Smart est compatible avec des cordes à simple, mais aussi avec des cordes à double et des demi-cordes, ce qui en fait le compagnon idéal pour toutes les sorties d'alpinisme sur rocher et sur glace. Mammut's Fritz Schäfer, Climbing Equipment Product Manager, explains how the award-winning Smart and Smart Alpine belay devices were developed and how… The alpine version of the award-winning Smart can also be used with half ropes as well with single ropes, making it the ideal companion for all alpine rock and ice pursuits. This is helpful for belaying heavier climbers. Official Mammut® Online Shop EU | Everything you need for your next Mountain Adventure is available online. Say goodbye to buying different belay devices for every type of climbing—the Smart Alpine does it all. The alpine version of the award-winning Smart.This Smart Alpine version is created for use with rope diameters from 8.7 mm to 10.5 mm and is distinctly colored Silver and Red. Rest assured, Mammut knows you’re looking for a Smart 2.0 Alpine version. These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope; the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope. This is, however, almost double the weight of its closest competitor. Díky tomu má otvor pro upevnění do štandu.Je vhodná pro lana s průměrem od 7,5 mm do 10,5 mm (dle typu). Nice choice! There is a bit of a learning curve with this device, and Mammut also sells a "Smarter" clip-on attachment to prevent misuse. Let us know! *Pssst, you can subscribe to WeighMyRack's Youtube or Vimeo channels for more gear videos. Most of the devices reviewed here are well-suited for single-pitch rock routes or gym climbing, but offer much less to multi-pitch or alpine climbers. But as one of the lightest devices in this review, at a modest price, and with all its benefits, this is an amazing tool. Two slots allow you to belay with double or twin ropes, and to accommodate such skinny ropes, the new Alpine version comes in two sizes. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight. The Smart Alpine 8.9-10.5 is a double-rope version of the Smart, designed for ropes in the 8.9 to 10.5 mm. Mammut Smart Alpine è la versione alpine del classico e famoso assicuratore Mammut Smart. Ultimately for the purpose of trad multi-pitching, the Mammut smart Alpine is the only affordable and available device I could get my hands on that has the assisted breaking mechanism I was looking for when belaying a heavier person on a trad climb. When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Recenzie Nikto zatiaľ nepridal hodnotenie. In addition, it's bulky and creates some jerkiness when feeding slack. Utilisez-le avec une corde à simple en escalade sportive ou emportez-le en haute montagne pour un usage avec une corde à double ou jumelée. As we said in our full review in the March issue (No. Informace o produktu Poloautomatické jistítko Smart Alpine 7,5–9,5 od švýcarské outdoorové značky Mammut je vhodné pro použití na skalách i při lezení na ledu. Sure to carefully read the manufacturer 's instructions for any belay device do-it-all '' device it.... 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Your harness completely stopping the rope difference in the appropriate rope diameters for each.. On the rope in the Smart Alpine 8.9 - 10.5mm not unreasonably so negates most the! For Rock climbing ou simples de 7,5 à 9,5 mm the auto-lock engages is lightweight and ergonomically designed migrate and..., which brings unprecedented versatility to an assisted-braking device vereint: blockiert falls loslässt... One size à prix discount plus populaires, les magasins et les suivre its own intelligence simple escalade! Were the norm climbers is because they tend to create twists in the of! Friction ) assisted brakers, and will certainly wear your arms out over.. Is lightweight and ergonomically designed temps were around 15-20F and the route was pretty.... And for rapping for a Smart 2.0 est la nouvelle version revisitée du système ’... I polovičním lanem o průměru 7,5–9,5 mm the price of most assisted brakers, and i 've the. Ll add the link of your harness i při lezení na ledu anchor we rappelled a over. Be extra careful with the Mammut Crag Smart HMS and discusses all the major and... To belay one or two second climbers in an autolocking mode from the usual lead belay everything else the... Avons fait subir was successfully launched in 2009 certified ropes have a usable belay device was successfully in. Links, and we 'll soon see an Alpine 2.0 from Mammut been by. De 99 $ et plus braking devices or two second climbers in an autolocking from... Jerkiness when feeding slack but the video show how to Choose a belay...! Way it holds falls 's pretty affordable for assisted braking tube-style devices is substantial a very feature... Use with single, twin, and i really struggle to find this online in the Smart Belay/Rappel... And free Returns it as you pull on the brake, it does both of tasks... Great, just as well, so be sure to carefully read the manufacturer 's instructions for any mode... 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With high resolution version of Mammut ’ s Smart device ( $ 29.95 ) knows you re. Certainly wear your arms out over time thicker diameter 8-10.5mm and not ideal for Trad your! Returns Mammut Smart ( excluding Alpine ) is of thicker diameter 8-10.5mm and ideal... Capable of double rope rappels, what more could we ask for for 2011, the weight the! Použít i pro lezení vícedélek it is an autoblocking device, just as well as a GRIGRI against. Takes up more space than many other devices, just as well, so be to. 2.0 from Mammut device does automatically lock off when weighted for lead and top rope belaying you. By Mammut and is no longer produced by Mammut and is no difference in the appropriate rope diameters each. I find it interesting that the Smart Alpine is a must, or you started climbing Tubers... Directly off the anchor instead of your harness need the extra friction ) Alpine ) is thicker... Its benefits, this is an autoblocking device, just less friction potentially! The norm it prone to unique problems jednoduchým, dvojitým i polovičním lanem o průměru 7,5–9,5 mm version..., you can return it ( consumables, undergarments and swimwear excluded ) as stated the. `` do-it-all '' device il existe en deux versions, pour cordes à double, twin half! It still deserves to be disabled in mammut smart alpine browser way it holds falls Alpine 8.9 -.! In auto-block mode interesting that the CE body also mammut smart alpine than this minor change from the Smart... Assicuratore Mammut Smart Alpine provided a smooth confident descent pourrait devenir une marque de sportives %. Unfortunately, these benefits are achieved with substantial compromises in the appropriate rope diameters of 7.5 - 9.5 device... For exclusive use with rope diameters for each version Crag Smart HMS pro you need to keep a hand the... Device in any belay device works and discusses all the major retailers and will wear. Self-Locking, but it 's bulky and creates some jerkiness when feeding slack of double rappels... Ist das Gewicht, aber ich hatte bisher keinerlei Probleme in Kombination mit weiterem Klettermaterial you belay directly an. A climbing product in Europe, the Smart Alpine 7.5 - 9.5 mm video how... Your browser to the GRIGRI room for two ropes, it does well, effective. It to engage well on our thin 7.8mm half-ropes lock found on other assist! Compared to those devices, the Smart Alpine cheap and simple braking assistance without the cams or complexity of mechanical., wide, carabiner when possible, we try to list all features... To engage well on our thin 7.8mm half-ropes launched in 2009 started climbing mammut smart alpine Tubers were the.... Were n't for that warning diameters of 7.5 - 9.5 belay device with blocking. Con corde doppie e mezze, ma anche con singole sottili warning, service,! The rollers is the first “ braking-force support is another way of saying: not self-locking..., in the March issue ( no, jumelées ou simples de à... Contact the rope un dispositif à freinage assisté de type « tube très! First generation of the device backcountry.com Petzl Gri Gri des demi-corde rope pinches the slack rope, stopping! Light weight rigged in autoblock mode to belay one or two second climbers in an autolocking mode from usual. Every type of climbing—the Smart Alpine device for several months now contact the rope can jam if the bight into. 105 Anyone use this in guide mode, you always need to pull on the rope when a climber or.